Fragrance Fundamentals: Perfume Basics 101 Straight From Our Experts

School may not be fully back in session, but this A+ scent-sational lesson deserves your attention

 
Fragrance is both deceptively simple and delightfully complex. You spritz, you sniff, and you fall in love. But behind every bottle is a world of notes, blends, and expert-driven olfactory magic that deserves a proper deep-dive, so in honor of back-to-school season, we’re closing out summer with a crash course we’re calling Fragrance Fundamentals. 

So grab your metaphorical backpack and get ready to sharpen your pencils—and your sense of smell. Think of this as your scented syllabus—everything a perfume wearer should know, from top notes to dry downs. (Don’t worry, there’s no final exam in sight.)

What Are Top, Heart, & Base Notes?

Let’s start at the top—literally—with some fragrance basics: Every scent, including each of ours, made by experts in Grasse, France, is crafted in layers. Together, they form a fragrance pyramid that’s made of top, heart (or middle), and base notes, each with their own role in how a perfume unfolds on your skin. Top notes are your fragrance’s first impression: Think of it as the “hello” moment right after you spritz. These are usually light, bright, and zesty, like citrus, green leaves, crisp florals, or juicy fruits. But don’t get too attached: Top notes are the quickest to fade, often disappearing within the first hour.
Next come the heart notes, which step into the spotlight once the top notes start to fade. These are the soul of the fragrance and tend to hang around for another couple of hours. They’re often more complex and full-bodied: Florals like rose or jasmine, aromatic herbs like lavender, spicy notes like cinnamon, or even creamy gourmand touches are common heart notes.
Finally, the base notes unfurl like a parting gift that sticks with you the longest—the ones that cozy up to your skin and make people lean in and ask, “What are you wearing?” These are often the deeper, richer notes like vanilla, amber, sandalwood, or musk, and give a fragrance its staying power and depth.
Together, these layers create a distinctive scent story that mingles with your own unique body chemistry to evolve throughout the day.

What Are Fragrance Families?

Now that you know how a fragrance unfolds, let’s zoom out and look at the bigger picture: What exactly you’re smelling, and how it’s categorized across fragrance families, or classifications based on dominant characteristics. Now, which fragrance families each perfume belongs to is an ongoing debate within the world of expert perfumers.


A fragrance can contain up to 100 different notes or ingredients. So, sometimes, the fragrance’s dominant notes are obvious and draw an immediate consensus. While with other perfumes, that’s not the case for other perfumes. Essentially, it’s a classic case of which comes first: the artist or the critic?

 

To simplify the fragrance classification process, our team of expert perfumers decoded––or denoted––the Dossier way: letting go of the pretense to create intuitive categories instead of relying on fancy olfactive terms like chypre or fougère. This approach led the Dossier Creative Lab to define six unique olfactive families that serve as the foundation for every composition we develop.

Looking to create the perfect scent wardrobe? Keep studying—er, reading—to find out more, plus discover our top-sellers in each category.

Overview of The Six Dossier Fragrance Families:

Fresh

First up are fresh scents, designed to delight with their bright, revitalizing notes. Bursting with citrus, aquatic notes, and breezy energy, they evoke that just-showered, ocean-side feeling. Think grapefruit, bergamot, and marine air, or the scent of an iconic coastal escape. Each Fresh scent is distinctly joyful, bright, and invigorating enough to awaken the senses.

Gourmand

Next up are gourmand scents, which are unapologetically indulgent—fruity, sweet, and smell totally edible (but, you know, don’t). These are the most crave-worthy scents there are, thanks to playful notes like juicy berries, decadent caramel, rich vanilla, and even deliciously charming notes of chocolate. If you love dessert, this is your dream family.

Flowery

Our largest fragrance family—and for good reason. From classic roses and white florals to modern, airy blossoms, these scents deliver everything from elegant romance to timeless, feminine-leaning freshness. Whether you’re into mixed bouquets or a single bloom moment, this family lets you wear your favorite floral anywhere you go. Look for notes like roses, jasmine, orange flower, and clean white flowers.

Herbal

Traditionally found in more masculine scents, herbal fragrances are often distinctly complex and hard to place—in the best way. With aromatic, green, and botanical notes like lavender, sage, and mint, these notes offer clarity, calm, and a clean finish that feels grounded and effortlessly wearable, no matter your gender.

Warm

Cozy, rich, and intimate thanks to notes like amber, musk, and vanilla, warm scents are where sensuality lives. Whether you want to lean into something enveloping or skin-like and soft, warm fragrances deliver comfort with just the right edge of intensity and allure.

Earthy

Last, but certainly not least, are Earthy scents, which are deep, grounding, and a little mysterious. With woody, spicy, and smoky elements like vetiver, sandalwood, and cardamom, they strike a balance between raw nature and refined complexity.

How Do I Make My Fragrance Last?

Now that you’ve studied up on the olfactory wheel, it’s time to make it last. But if you want to still catch a whiff of what you spritzed hours later, know that it starts long before you spritz: One of the biggest factors that informs fragrance longevity is concentration. Because our perfumes range from 12% to 25% perfume oil—a serious boost compared to, say, a body mist or eau de toilette—they have a lot more staying power. 

But it’s not just about strength: It’s also about what’s inside. Scents with warm, rich base notes like vanilla, amber, musks, and woods tend to stick around longer than their fruity-floral, aquatic, or citrusy counterparts. That said, there are a few tried-and-true strategies to ensure your scent wafts and wears to its fullest potential:

  1. First, be sure to apply it to hydrated skin, which holds fragrance better and for longer.
  2. You can also apply it directly to your shirt from a safe distance, as fabric tends to hold onto fragrance longer than skin.
  3. Lastly, spritz more than once: Two to four spritzes directly onto the skin—no mist-walking or wrist-rubbing—keeps the scent going longer. Just be sure to let your perfume dry naturally and let it unfold the way it was designed to.

What Is Dossier’s Intensity Scale

Not all scents wear the same—and without an all-day test-run, it can be hard to decipher how they’ll wear. That’s why we created our three-tier scent intensity scale on every product page, ranging from soft to significant to statement. Each fragrance is ranked based on two factors: longevity, or how long it lingers on the skin, and projection, or how far the scent radiates and fills the surrounding air. This is also known as sillage.
This scale helps you choose—and maybe even layer—fragrances based on how you want them to unfurl on your own skin, so you can expertly design your own signature scent, all without weeks of trial and error.
 
Consider this your Fragrance Fundamentals 101 graduation moment, no cap and gown required.
 
Whether you’re headed back to class or just craving a scent refresh, you’re now fully equipped to spritz smarter, layer better, and scent with confidence all semester long.
 
Ready to take a few extra notes? Enjoy an exclusive look inside The Dossier Creative Lab.
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